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(meteorobs) Joe Rao's Leonid Adventure



WELL . . . I DID PROMISE THEM A BIG SHOWER . . .
By Joe Rao

"A location blessed by its proximity to the one of the world's persistent 
high pressure systems - namely the Azores High which can create a haven of 
clear nighttime weather - is the Canary Islands."    
                                                                      
Meteorologist Jay Anderson
                                                                           
Environment Canada

    I had missed out as a 10-year-old boy in seeing any part of the now 
legendary 1966 Leonid meteor storm, thanks to cloudy skies.  In 1969, I 
stepped out into my Bronx backyard only to catch the final few moments of an 
unexpected Leonid outburst, which had, only minutes earlier produced a brief 
bevy of nearly 300 meteors per hour.  Last year, drizzle and fog blocked my 
view of the very impressive Leonid fireball shower.  So, needless to say with 
the potential of an impending storm of Leonid meteors I had a set forth a 
"meteor mandate" for this year:  I would most definitely position myself at a 
favorable longitude for seeing the anticipated peak of the Leonids and be at 
a location where the probability of favorable weather would be high. 

    My eventual decision would be to lead a tour to view the Leonids from 
Lanzarote, the easternmost of the Canary Islands.  Long-term records had 
revealed a nearly 70% frequency of clear skies or scattered cloudiness during 
the nighttime hours in mid-November.  Couple this with overnight temperatures 
in the comfortable mid 60's (F.) and it seemed an excellent location for 
meteor watching.  The tour would start out in Madrid, Spain on November 13th, 
then work its way to Lanzarote by November 16th.  

    Thanks to Mr. Liberal Lopes of Skyline Travel of Huntington, New York, we 
even managed to coerce the initially-reluctant Spanish government to open up 
their Timanfaya Volcano Park to us during the after-dark hours for the "big 
night" of November 17-18 - a very unique circumstance!  

    A total of 77 people signed-on for our "Pursuit of the Leonids."  My wife 
Renate and two children, Joseph (9) and Maria (6) accompanied me.  While many 
of the participants were from the northeastern U.S., quite a few others came 
from more distant locations such as South Carolina, Michigan, Arizona, 
California and even from London, England!  On the evening of November 15th, I 
gave a slide presentation to our group and spoke of the potential of viewing 
a big shower.  My personal prediction was for rates of anywhere from 2000 to 
6000 per hour.  I felt that this sudden surge of activity would happen 
somewhere within a "window" running from 2:08 to 4:17 a.m. UT on November 
18th.  I was actually pretty confident that we would be treated to a most 
interesting display.  The only thing we needed was good weather . . . and the 
climatological odds were excellent for that to occur on Lanzarote.

BREAKING UP IS HARD TO DO

    As climatology had predicted, there was a huge (1040 millibar) 
high-pressure system centered near the Azores.  This high was causing a gusty 
northeasterly trade wind pattern, typical for the Canaries for this time of 
year.  Unfortunately, also overlying the region was an upper-level trough of 
low pressure that produced a rather moist and unstable environment.  The 
trades were continuously bringing in periodic intervals of overcast skies 
occasionally accompanied by brief showers.  For our first night on Lanzarote, 
we looked for early Leonids from the north end of the island on the grounds 
of Jameos De Agua (which contained a beautiful formation of underground 
caves).  Sky conditions varied from broken to scattered clouds and we caught 
sight of a few forerunners of the impending big display.

    The following day - November 17 - I carefully watched the ever-changing 
sky conditions over the island.  It was readily apparent that there was a 
fairly reliable four-hour cycle where we would go from perfectly clear skies, 
back to a growing overcast, a brief hard rain shower, then back again to a 
renewed clearing trend.  Almost like clockwork, this was the way things 
progressed right from sunup through sundown.  As our group sat down to dinner 
at the El Diablo Restaurant (where we had our dinner cooked over a dry well 
with steam from the volcano), clear skies once again began giving way to a 
build-up of cloud cover.  We all knew that another round of rain showers 
would soon be arriving; but would the residual clouds break in time for 
viewing the prospective Leonid peak in just a few hours?  From our observing 
position on the summit of the 1,200-foot Montanas del Fuego we were 
surrounded by an eerie landscape reminiscent of being on the Moon.  Given 
clear skies, we would have an incredible backdrop for viewing that night's 
Leonid display.    

    The rain began falling again soon after 9 p.m.  But this time, instead of 
the clouds breaking up as soon as the rain came to an end, they now 
stubbornly held their place.  Then another, heavier bout of rain moved 
through, followed by an all-out squall at around midnight.  It was also about 
this time that the Lanzarote news media arrived.  The local television 
station interviewed tour participants, while a reporter from the newspaper 
"La Provincia de Lanzarote" asked questions about why some of us trekked more 
than a quarter of a way around the globe apparently to be in the middle of 
nowhere on this particular night.  (In the Friday edition of the paper the 
story about our escapade would appear, with the headline:  "Lluvia si, pero 
esta vez no fue de estrellas" or "Rain yes, but not of the stars.")  Nearby, 
one of the locals could be heard musing:  "No puedo creer esto.  Es la 
primera lluvia significativa que hemos visto alrededor aqui desde enero!" ("I 
can't believe this.  It is the first significant rain we've seen around here 
since January!")  A few small breaks in the clouds appeared at around 1 a.m., 
enabling us to glimpse the setting gibbous Moon, Jupiter and one or two of 
the brighter stars.  But hopes for clearing skies faded a half-hour later as 
a light drizzle began to fall.  By 1:45 we finally abandoned all hope for any 
significant improvement in the weather.  These clouds were not going to 
break, at least not locally.  But far off in the distance - toward the north 
and east - we could see a few breaks and rifts in the clouds.  We quickly 
piled our group back into our double-decker bus and vacated our "perfect 
observing site" in search of clearer skies.  We didn't have much time: the 
opening of my predicted "window of opportunity" for getting a view of the 
possible Leonid peak less than 20 minutes away.           

THE ISLAND WASN'T BIG ENOUGH!

    Our bus driver raced northward at a rapid pace.  My face was pressed up 
against the window desperately looking for any large openings in the clouds.  
Finally, just before 2:30 a.m., we pulled off a deserted side road.  I jumped 
out of the bus and looked skyward.  There above us was a fairly large hole in 
the clouds, roughly 30 by 50 degrees, from which I could clearly see Orion 
and some of the familiar retinue of winter constellations.  But more 
importantly, I was also seeing meteors - Leonids - coming in fairly rapid 
succession.  Within less than 20 seconds I caught sight of two short ones of 
roughly third magnitude, followed by a bright blue-green zero magnitude 
streak. "EVERYBODY OUT!" I yelled.  Quickly the bus emptied, but that clear 
space was now closing rapidly.  Nonetheless, Leonids continued to streak 
across our line of sight in a general east-to-west direction.  Karen Gerry, a 
long-time member of the Astronomical Society of Long Island (ASLI) clicked 
off 11 Leonids in just 3 minutes on a pocket counter.  That would correspond 
to an hourly rate of 220 - and that was just through a small clear space!  
Alas, in less than 15 minutes, our oasis of starry sky had vanished and it 
began to drizzle once again.  We again boarded the bus and again set out to 
look for breaks in the clouds.  By 3:30, however, I made an announcement that 
we were heading back to our hotel so as to drop off those who wished to call 
it a night.  If anybody wanted to remain in our search for clear skies, they 
could stay on the bus.  To my surprise, more than half elected to stay.  We 
pulled away from the hotel just after 4 a.m. and continued heading to the 
north.  Finally, at around 4:30 when we had reached the northernmost tip of 
Lanzarote, I stepped off of the bus and cast a gaze at gloomy, overcast sky.  
It was then that Luis Lopez, one of our tour escorts put his hand on my 
shoulder and said, "I'm sorry Joe, it looks like we've just run out of 
Island."  It was a very quiet bus ride back to the hotel.

ON THE ROAD TO MOROCCO!

    Not everyone failed in the attempt to catch the Leonid peak.  Eight of 
our group made a last minute decision during the early evening of Wednesday, 
the 17th, to charter a Beechcraft 1200 airplane and fly to Morocco in search 
of clearer skies.  Joel Moskowitz, Craig Small, Glenn Schneider, John 
Beattie, Gregory and Patricia Wright and their two young sons Grant and Gage 
(ages 10 and 8) landed late that night at El Jadida, then took three taxis 
approximately 30 kilometers inland to a dark, secluded location where they 
could watch for the meteors.  According to Mr. Moskowitz, " . . . there was 
about a 15 to 20 minute interval centered on 2:10 UT where Leonids were 
apparently coming at an average rate of one or two per second (3,600 to 7,200 
per hour).  Most were not exceptionally bright, though a few bright fireballs 
were noted." Mr. Moskowitz also commented that the rise in activity prior to 
and its subsequent decline after the peak was exceptionally pronounced.  One 
unsettling drawback to this little adventure was that the little group were 
under constant scrutiny by local gendarme - thinking perhaps that they 
perhaps were undercover smugglers almost to the point of having their 
passports confiscated.  The group was eventually allowed to proceed on their 
way however, probably only because of the presence of the Wright's two 
children.  Said Gregory Wright later: "It ultimately turned out to be a very 
unnerving experience to say the least!"   

NEXT YEAR: IT'S ON OUR TURF!

      The third and final night on Lanzarote saw our group stargazing from 
the north end of the island from the beautiful Mirador Del Rio with its high 
plateaus and steep cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.  We observed under 
skies that varied from scattered clouds to at times even clear.  It was the 
kind of weather that we had fully expected and hoped for for all three 
nights, but so far as the meteor storm was concerned it materialized one 
night too late!  As I gave my final star lecture I ruefully commented that in 
astronomy timing can be everything:  "The cloud of meteoric material that 
produced last night's big meteor show had been originally ejected from the 
Tempel-Tuttle comet a hundred years ago.  Those meteoroids had swung around 
the Sun three times before interacting with Earth last night.  One hundred 
years, but for us, just one day too early!"

    In the aftermath of our failure to observe the 1999 Leonids, most of the 
tour participants (my sister jokingly referred to them as my "Leonid 
disciples.") came up to me to inquire as to what were our prospects for 
seeing heavy Leonid activity in future years.  Not a few asked where I 
planned to observe the "Y2K Leonids."  My reply to such a question was one of 
mock surprise. "Going back to 1966, I'm now zero-for-four with this shower.  
So far as getting a view of the Leonids are concerned, I'm sort of a hangnail 
on the fickle finger of fate."  I was thinking later that these folks 
probably wanted to know where I was planning to be - so that they could head 
in the opposite direction! 
      
    After meteor enthusiasts have slogged to all corners of the globe to 
chase the Leonids during these past two years, there is some good news to 
report for next year.  It appears that eastern North America may be among the 
best places to be to observe any possible enhanced Leonid activity.  There 
will actually be two nights to watch for any possible outburst.  The Earth 
will pass through the orbital plane of 55P/Tempel-Tuttle, 989 days after the 
comet itself, at 07:53 UT (2:53 a.m. EST) on November 17th.  Then, the 
following night (November 18th) according to David Asher of Armagh 
Observatory and Rob McNaught of the Australian National University, the Earth 
is expected to come close to two meteor trails that "could" produce many 
meteors.  The first trail of debris, expelled from 55P in 1733 - and which 
previously gave rise to a Leonid storm in 1866 - will be closest to Earth at 
03:44 UT, which would favor Europe and Africa, but a second trail, passing by 
at 07:51 UT (2:51 a.m. EST) would again favor eastern North America.  As to 
what these trails could produce, in the wake of last week's event predictions 
concerning potential meteor rates are likely open to debate.  In their most 
recent update Asher and McNaught suggested ZHR's only in the 20-30 range in 
the year 2000.  If no meteor storm materializes, then they suggest, " . . . 
wait for 2001 and/or 2002."  According to their calculations, the Americas 
could be poised for a major Leonid storm in the latter year, though - in 
fairness - it should be noted here that Earth will be trailing 55P by more 
than 56 months and there has never been a major Leonid storm observed so far 
behind the parent body. 

    The biggest drawback to next year's Leonids is the situation regarding 
the Moon: a bright waxing gibbous on the morning of November 17th, it will be 
situated in Cancer just to the east of the Beehive Star Cluster.  The 
following night, the Moon, now at Last Quarter, will be sitting just to the 
west of Sickle of Leo.     

HOPE SPRINGS ENTERNAL

"I don't think you have anything in that black bag for me." 
-- Dorothy Gale
in the "Wizard of Oz"

    Well . . . that's my report on my pursuit of the Leonids.  I promised the 
tour participants a big shower of meteors - unfortunately they were of the 
hydro variety!  I must say that virtually everybody had a great time visiting 
Spain and exploring the exotic sights of Lanzarote.  As we gathered at the 
airport in Madrid for our flight home, most came up to me and said that 
despite the poor weather they still got a lot out of our eight-day tour.  "A 
successful failure," is how I eventually labeled it.  But of course, despite 
everyone else being pleased overall with what they saw, I came away from this 
experience bitterly disappointed, the big prize still eluding my grasp.  Well 
. . . as they used to say in Brooklyn:  "Better luck next year!" 

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