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Re: photo strategies for Leonids '00? (was Re: (meteorobs) DMS ready for tak...
>> I would like your input (& from anyone else) on *strategies* for
photographing
the Leonids, with the last-quarter moon near the radiant.<<
In a nutshell....avoid pointing camera towards the moon. Aim in a direction
where the moon isn't. Screw the radiant.
>>At 1st, I figured meteor photography was an impossibilitiy, given the moon
interference. So, I decided not to do anything for 2000 Leonids.<<
Don't know what your purpose is for meteor photography, but if you are
looking for the "perfect" picture, you may be out of luck. If gathering data
is your purpose, then there should be no major problem really....still avoid
pointing a camera towards the moon. If you use color film, the pleasing
effect will probably experience some washout. I prefer black and white film.
I use to have a camera running for meteor captures even during a full moon.
I'd use HP-5 film using a 28mm f/2.8 lens. and develop for an ASA equivalency
of 400. I'd make exposures no longer than 10 minutes for a full moon. I'd get
some dense negatives, but they were useable for what I wanted them for at the
time. With a quarter moon, 10 minutes will probably be reasonable, although
you'll get some fogging the closer the camera's field of view is near the
moon. I'd always aim my camera in a northerly direction since there was a
darker part of the sky in that area. Always managed to get some useful meteor
photos where measurements could be made. My two wide angle cameras were
guided on a camera platform. The tracking was usually good for at least 20 to
30 minutes before film advancement had to be made. But with the moon, 10
minutes is useable if for strictly meteor measuring purposes. But you
probably won't win any photo contests with the moon in the way.
>>I guess I could back-off, & use less cameras. But, that compromises my
blanket
approach ("covering the sky")<<
That would make sense and save you some money. Aiming a camera directly at
the moon for meteor photography isn't gonna reap you very many useful meteor
images. Stars will be washed out etc. If you aren't gonna get anything useful
aiming a camera at the moon, why worry about a blanket approach? Aim the
cameras where they will do the most good....unless you enjoy wasting time,
effort and film?
>>3) use big aperture scope (to get meteors, since point-source exposures are
function of aperture), with slow f-ratio (to "knock down" sky-background
fog).
But, this means very long focal-length lenses. This minimizes chances of
getting
meteors. Contradiction. Paradox. No solution?<<
Probably a waste of time.
>>For 1), has anyone come up with a formula (ASA, f-ratio, lens diameter,
exposure
time), that is sky-background limited for half-moonlit conditions? I can
figure
this out, by just going out & testing (long trip, hassle, $$, etc.)<<
If you are looking for that perfect picture....your best bet would be long
trips, hassle, $$ and lots of luck.
>>(example)
The Geminids '98, had a crescent moon come up in the east, ~4am.
I backed off my exposures to 5 min (instead of 15 min, moonless sky), 1000
ASA,
f2.8. But this year, there will be a half-moon, so I would have to go less
exposure. 2 min? 3 min?<<
Use slower film...try 400 ASA....you can photograph the moon with ASA 400 as
well as 1000. Again, don't aim at the moon unless you want to let fate and
luck take over and see if anything unusual might happen in your favor.
>>Given the predictions, what are the chances of "fireballs" for 2000? ('98
was
noted for the quantity of fireballs. see
http://www.comet-track.com/meteor/leonids98/leonids98.html). '99 was
disappointing..I spent all that $$, the photos paled in comparison to '98.<<
Don't expect 2000 to be another 98. The fish you pull out of a pond won't be
there the next time you go fishing.
GeoZay
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